
Driving on this red dirt road turned into the most
physically uncomfortable trips I have ever been on. I look up the bumpy road
ahead to see a spot of pavement. Yes,
I cry in my head, a smooth patch. Little did I know that in order to dodge most
of the holes, we would have to drive halfway on the pavement and halfway in the
ditch beside. A few miles up the road, the tracks of previous vehicles lead off
the road onto this newly formed road. There
must be a big hole up ahead informs the driver. I am informed that during
the rainy season, big semi trucks dig holes 10 feet deep in the soft ground;
impassable for any vehicle besides the motorbikes. My buttocks was relieved for
the second time (the first being for make-shift road repairs after a truck full
of boxes tipped over) when we come upon a line of passenger trucks and vans. We
get out of the truck to relieve our bladders and stretch the legs and walk up
to see what was going on. A van stuffed full of people had gotten itself stuck
in the mud. The driver got everybody out of the van to push and pull.
Eventually, it was our turn. Luckily, the Montero 4X4 easily made it through
the mess.
About 5 hours later, we arrive upon what motivated us to
make the trip: The refugee camp. Unlike what I had expected (tents, relief
workers and food distribution sites) it just looked like a small village of mud
and grass huts. We turned off the road and weaved our way through the homes to
the center of the village. The arrival of a vehicle, not to mention a vehicle
with Baba Jesse and his sabajos, attracted the people, who came out to greet
us. Sanu, Sanu, Useko, Useko kept
echoing around me as I lightly shook the hands of multitudes of people.
These are the Emaneya Fulbe from the CAR.
The president of the CAR didn't have enough
military support to control his rural country and decided to arm random locals
with rifles and the promise of payment if they would control the masses under
his name. The new recruits upheld their end of the deal until the president
fell through with the payments. Now, instead of not having enough military
support to control his country, the president had armed locals with no military
support to control them. These people, finding newfound strength and power with
their weapons, decided that they would take advantage of this situation and make
a little money in the process. They started to harass and kidnap other locals
with the demand of money.
The Fulbe people were a prime target, specifically the
Emaneya Fulbe. They are a cattle tribe, are more reserved than most Africans,
and Emaneya happens to mean 'the true way'. This group of Muslims figured, from
the Koran, that Jesus is a greater prophet than Muhammad, because he was
sinless and performed many miracles. Naturally, the bandits deduced that these
Emaneya were a prime target: they had money (cattle), they weren't true
Muslims, and they were reserved (would comply with demands). After many
kidnappings and murders, many of the tribe decided to leave the country to
where they would be safe. Leaving what little they had left behind, they
crossed the border over to Cameroon,
which is where we found them.


We stayed in Jabrima's house. He has lived here for ten years. The
refugees started coming about 3 years ago, and they continue to come. Jabrima
has had his little house in the bush grow to be a little village of about 200
refugees. He had helped the first refugees build their homes and start a little
plot of corn. But when it came to medical problems and the overabundance of new
arrivals with no food, there was little he could do to help. During the first
few years, many people died of malaria and other curable diseases. By the time
I got to see them, they had received help from the missionaries by the way of
medical needs, corn seeds, a water pump and a grinding mill.
We helped in what we could. We handed out buckets of
supplies (little things like tooth-brushes and toothpaste, cutlery, soap, etc.
to make their lives a little bit easier), talked to the people, found out some
needs, prayed with them, and Baba Jesse (Jesse’s dad) taught a few things. At
night we would be lulled to sleep by Arabic chants about Jesus.
After a couple of nights, we made our way back home. The
roads were noticeably better, as it hadn’t rained in a while. Besides the ever so
often tailgating of an aggressive gas truck, we arrived home safely and
quickly. For me, it was a trip of understanding. The culture I had witnessed
was so deep; it was molded so deep into the people that no amount of suffering
or hardships could change the contentment of the people. It was good for me to
be able to see this. I often think about humanitarian work and how it affects
the culture. Is it right for us to go into an ‘undeveloped’ place, bring with
us technology that will change their lives, make it better in our
understanding? Is it wrong for us not to? How much value does culture hold when
compared with human life? I believe there is a way to help people without
destroying their culture, I just haven’t quite bought in to the methods of the
ever so confident speakers I have heard.
p.s. Justin, you need to come out here and record some music